21 October 2017 Saturday - Balloon ride, anti-poaching, lions ~ Day 12
This has been another very busy day in the Serengeti and we took a ton of photos.
Kathy and I got up very early and were met by a land rover that took us to a hot air balloon ride we had signed up for. The balloons took off around sunrise, so we had to get up very early and drive through the dark to get there. When we got there, the sunrise was beautiful, but maybe not as glorious as sunrise at the lake lodge.
I
was surprised to find two hot air balloons, and both were on their
side. There was a team of men inflating both balloons, and when they
became full enough, the pilots started shooting hot air into them,
which made them slowly rise.
While
the basket was still on its side, we climbed into it and strapped
ourselves in. Then the pilot ignited the burners, filling the balloon
with hot air. In a few minutes, the balloon popped up into an upright
state and we were ready to go.
Our
balloon pilot was a Canadian. He had the most ridiculous, exaggerated
accent I’ve ever heard. If I’d heard it in a Hollywood movie, I
would have sworn it was fake. It was really unbelievable. And I’m
from Minnesota, which borders Canada, so I’ve heard a lot of
Canadians.
The team of men held onto the balloon from the ground while it uprighted itself. We couldn’t see them, but we could see the other balloon’s team at work.
We
watched them become upright too.
Soon
both balloons were off the ground and into the air.
The
men quickly got back into the land rovers and started to chase us
across the savanna.
We
stayed low to the ground for a while.
The
wind took us across a long twisty river. We could see several large
pods of hippos swimming in the river below.
From
above, we saw one of those “Secretary Birds” sitting at the top
of a tree. For some reason they’re very hard to photograph.
We
also saw some birds that looked like parrots. They looked very out of
place.
It
was interesting how the tree line followed the river, and when you
got away from the river, the plains became quite barren.
We
found another pod of hippos that weren’t in the water. They were
apparently walking back to the river from a mud bath.
It
was fun to see them walking on land. We’ve always just seen them in
the water.
We
saw another huge crocodile in the river. Man, he was a monster. He
was at least twice as big as the biggest alligator I’ve seen, and
yes, I’ve been to the Everglades.
We
started going up higher. It was a pretty view from up there.
From
above, we could see lots of hippo tracks in the mud going every
direction.
On
the drive, we met some Germans who were very friendly, especially
when they learned I spoke a little of their language, and had just
been on a trip to Germany. They took a couple of photos of us from
the balloon using my cell phone and I think they turned out nice.
The
main German woman, a social butterfly, was both pretty and very
intelligent. She must have been fluent in a dozen languages. I heard
her talking to various other tourists in their native languages, like
Italian and Dutch. She told us she’d lived in several European
countries when she was growing up.
We
kept going up, and pretty soon the trees looked like dots and the
roads looked like lines etched on the surface.
We
kept going higher and higher; much higher than I expected. More than
ten thousand feet?
We
went up and down several times. When we got low, we could see small
groups of wildebeests walking around, but not many other animals.
Which made us wonder: On previous days, we had seen literally
millions of wildebeests. Where were they all hiding now? We could see
for many miles.
We
also saw a few other birds; vultures and such, but overall, we were
disappointed. There weren’t as many animals as we had hoped. Kathy
was unhappy. It was a fun ride, but we just didn’t see many animals
besides the hippos. Just dust-devils like this one and a few animals
here and there.
The
captain landed the balloon in an upright condition, despite the
winds. After the balloon landed, we got into the land rovers and
drove to a picnic site where we ate a nice brunch and drank
traditional champagne. We did see a few more animals along the way,
like another secretary bird. Why are they so hard to photograph?
Unfortunately, the land rover didn’t stop for any photos.
Kathy
joked that we saw more animals on the land rover ride to brunch than
we did from the air. We did see a few, including this eagle.
Here’s
a photo of us holding bottles of champagne.
We
each got a certificate stating that we had taken the balloon ride.
Thrilling, huh?
The
most amusing thing is that they had a “loo with a view.” This was
a portable toilet that was open on one side.
Here’s
the front side. Yep. That’s it.
When
we were planning the trip, I had insisted that we take the hot air
balloon ride, but all in all, I wouldn’t recommend it. It’s too
expensive and you don’t see that much. The winds are too fickle,
and so are the animals.
They dropped us off at a park visitor’s center where we rejoined our regular OAT group, who told us they had spent the morning on a game drive and saw a group of cheetahs kill an animal, and we missed it! Aaaarrrggghhh. Now Kathy was really pissed.
From there, we drove a while to a secret location. There, we met the head of anti-poaching for all of Tanzania. He talked about the different types of poaching and how they’re fighting it. We weren’t allowed to take any photos, because that would endanger his life and the lives of his staff. We were impressed with his lecture.
There are two basic kinds of poachers: The most common are people who poach animals like wildebeest for their meat and sell it on the black market. The second kind are the elephant and rhino poachers, who are funded by rich foreign interests.
If you’re caught poaching, they can tell which kind you are by the equipment you’re carrying. If you’re carrying snares, traps and small guns, they know you’re type one. You’ll be arrested and thrown in jail. If you’re caught there are serious fines and serious jail time. They have a “three strikes” rule. They understand people have got to eat, and there are literally millions of wildebeests, so they’re shown a little bit of mercy.
If you’re carrying a large-game high-powered rifle, or other equipment to grind up rhino horns, or equipment to remove elephant tusks, they know you’re there to kill an elephant or rhino. And they kill you. No mercy. No police. No judge. No jury. No arrests. No jail time. They just kill you. And I applaud that. Humans have abused these animals to the point of near extinction; enough is enough. I told the head of anti-poaching they should give out licenses for people to hunt and kill the poachers.
They also routinely tranquilized (“darted”) the rhinos and either removed their horns, replacing them with prosthetic horns, or drilled them out and inserted tracking devices. They keep very careful watch on their rhinos, and if a rhino is found dead, they immediately search, often using helicopters, to find the tracking device. They poachers are almost always caught and dealt with. I believe them, because if you look at the rhino photos we took, you can see the horns have been drilled out. And we did see helicopters on a mission to dart more rhinos. These guys are good. Very good.
After we left the anti-poaching headquarters, we went on another game drive. First, we saw some antelopes, like a topi who had a pretty young baby. It was really cute.
I
took this shot of Kathy standing up in the land rover.
Then
we started seeing lions. Lots of lions. First, we saw a male lion
sprawled out, resting. He looked at us to see if were were a threat.
Then he decided we weren’t and went back to sleep.
Next,
we saw a pretty old female lion matriarch. She looked a little
haggard.
She
had a leather tracking collar, and you could see its antenna sticking
out.
Our
land rovers got pretty close to the lion.
Not
far away, we saw another female sitting majestically on top a large
rock.
For
some reason, we drove back and got a second look at the older female.
We
got out and had a short picnic lunch. There were tons of wildebeests
walking around the area. I took her photo.
There
were thousands, or even millions of wildebeests. This photo only
begins to give you a hint at it.
We
took a few photos of our OAT guides. From left to right: Eki, Moody,
and Yonah.
By
this time it was mid-afternoon, and it was starting to get hot
outside.
We drove to another pride of lions, and spent a long time there. There were two main adult females and they both had cubs. They were so cute.
The
mother tried to get the cubs’ attention by making some noises. She
called them, but the cubs ignored her.
She
was not to be bargained with.
The
second female yawned a toothy yawn and watched her sister discipline
the disobedient cubs.
The
mama went over and bit the heads of a couple of these unruly cubs to
show them who is boss. They didn’t like it one bit and whined a
bit. Then she threatened to pick them up, as cats do, by the scruff
of the neck, but it was more of a show of force than anything.
We
both got this in several photos, and I even recorded it with my video
camera. Afterward, Kathy told me this was the most memorable moment
of the trip for her. Mine was soon to come!
After
the mama cat had properly disciplined her kittens, she licked them,
cuddled with them, and made up. It was the cutest thing ever.
This
mama-kitten interaction was just adorable.
A
vulture sat nearby, unimpressed.
The
mama lion left her cubs and rejoined her sister and they spent some
time licking and cuddling each other too.
Somehow
a third adult lioness appeared. I was making a video of a group of
the three lions, slightly distracted by the kittens, and bumped the
camera. When I stabilized the camera, only two lions were there. I
wondered, “What the heck happened to the third lion?” I looked
out the window and didn’t see her anywhere. Then I (foolishly)
stuck my head of the window to get a better look. I turned my head
and saw the third lion. She had lain down next to our land rover to
use its shade. And she was looking at me! Our eyes met, and it was
really creepy. I saw her, and she knew it. She saw me, and I knew it.
I felt this moment of terror and a huge adrenaline rush; an automatic
fight-or-flight response. I whipped my head back inside the land
rover and swiped the window partly shut. My heart was pounding.
Meanwhile, Kathy took this photo of the big cat looking up at me.
This was my most memorable moment of the trip, and probably the most terrifying.
I
asked Kathy if she saw that. She had. She took my photo, and I was
still visibly shaken.
The
exposure was too dark, so she adjusted her camera and took another.
Soon,
another lioness got up and walked over to the shade of our truck. She
walked right underneath me! I could have reached down and easily
petted her back as she passed. Kathy took this photo of me taking a
picture while the lion watched.
Kathy
got some good close-ups like this one.
We
drove a very short distance and found another group of lions,
undoubtedly from the same pride. One of the females was still eating
a wildebeest they had recently killed. The kittens did some munching
too, but they were restless and walked around, trying to find a place
to cool off.
The
lions had chewed a hole all the way through this poor dead
wildebeest.
Meanwhile,
the kittens walked restlessly around the vehicles.
Finally,
they found some shade under the truck next to ours. It was so
awesome.
Eventually,
we left the lions and went out looking for other animals. We found a
decent-sized group of elephants with young ones.
They
got closer and closer to our vehicle.
They
walked right up to the land rover, as if they were posing for a
photo.
They
were so close, we got some pretty decent close-up photos where you
can see the hair follicles and texture of their skin.
The
elephants were cute, but not as cute as those lions.
We
started heading back to our tent camp, and on the way, we found a
lonesome hyena just sitting in a muddy hole at the side of the road.
When
our vehicle approached him, he looked around. So we got close to him
too.
He
decided we weren’t a threat, so he went back to sleep.
When
we got back to the camp, I decided to do some laundry: socks and
underwear. There was a pretty tight weight restriction on our luggage
for the flight to Masai Mara (33 pounds / 15kg), so we couldn’t
bring three weeks worth of clothes. So we had to do some wash. The
camp provided some tubs, water, and laundry soap for us to use.
At
night, we had a great meal, and after the meal, the camp hosts
brought Kathy and I an anniversary cake. They started singing and
dancing and making a fuss. Wow! We definitely weren’t expecting
that. We had told someone that the trip was for our anniversary,
which was back in May.